Eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day is a cherished tradition for many Americans, symbolizing good fortune and prosperity in the year ahead.
While the custom may seem simple, its origins are deeply tied to family traditions and a rich historical legacy spanning continents. Families across the United States soak and cook black-eyed peas, often pairing them with rice or greens, as a way to welcome abundance. For chef Christian “Lucke” Bell, this tradition brings back memories of his mother’s kitchen in Chicago, where soaking the beans overnight was a ritual. Bell recalls the savory aroma of black-eyed peas served over white rice, embodying a hopeful start to the year. Similarly, food historian Adrian Miller has embraced this tradition since childhood, connecting it to a lineage of African and Southern American cuisine. Despite mixed results in terms of the promised luck, the practice endures as a meaningful culinary celebration.
The symbolism of black-eyed peas runs deep, representing coins and material wealth, while greens often symbolize folding money. These traditions resonate in the African American community, where they have been passed down for generations. Miller, whose family roots trace back to Tennessee and Arkansas, observes that these dishes are more than just food; they are a cultural connection to ancestors and shared history. As he explains, the tradition mirrors similar practices worldwide, like Asian cultures celebrating Lunar New Year with symbolic foods. This shared human experience of connecting food to fortune reflects a universal desire for prosperity and well-being. For African Americans, black-eyed peas hold particular significance, serving as a reminder of the resilience and resourcefulness of their ancestors. The tradition is as much about honoring the past as it is about wishing for future success.
The roots of black-eyed peas in American cuisine stem from West Africa, where the legume was a staple crop. During the transatlantic slave trade, black-eyed peas, along with yams, were provisions aboard slave ships, feeding those enduring the horrific Middle Passage. This history highlights a darker chapter in which enslaved Africans adapted their culinary traditions to survive. One such adaptation, Hoppin’ John, combines black-eyed peas and rice, a dish that remains popular in Southern cooking today. According to Miller, this dish symbolizes resilience, resourcefulness, and cultural preservation. The meal’s continued significance in African American New Year’s celebrations reflects its historical importance and the enduring strength of the community’s heritage.
The connection between black-eyed peas and emancipation is another powerful layer to the tradition. On December 31, 1862, African Americans gathered for “Watch Night,” awaiting the Emancipation Proclamation’s effect at midnight. Following these emotional gatherings, celebratory meals often included black-eyed peas and collard greens, establishing the dishes as symbols of freedom and hope. For chef Sheri L. Raleigh, black-eyed peas are an “emancipation food” that carried enslaved people and sharecroppers through challenging times. Her research uncovers stories of how these simple legumes supported survival and even facilitated the Great Migration. This culinary legacy reminds us of the perseverance and ingenuity that shaped African American history, making each bowl of black-eyed peas a tribute to ancestors’ struggles and triumphs.
The tradition’s reach extends beyond the United States, resonating in countries like Brazil, where Afro-Brazilian women historically prepared Acarajé, a fritter made from black-eyed peas. This dish, with Yoruba origins tied to Nigeria, highlights the global impact of African culinary traditions. In Bahia, Brazil, women sold Acarajé as street food, using the profits for both their masters and their own mobility. These shared foodways across the Americas reveal a tapestry of resilience, adaptation, and cultural preservation. For Sandra Rocha Evanoff, a Seattle resident born in Bahia, black-eyed peas represent her Afro-Brazilian heritage. While she opts for lentils on New Year’s, as many South Americans do, she cherishes black-eyed peas as part of her cultural patrimony.
Today, the New Year’s tradition of eating black-eyed peas unites diverse communities across the Americas, symbolizing both cultural pride and hopeful beginnings. From the Deep South to the northern cities of Chicago and Detroit, families prepare the dish as a way to honor their ancestors and carry forward a legacy of survival. The beans have evolved with the regional ingredients found across the U.S., yet their symbolic value remains intact. For Raleigh, this culinary tradition tells a beautiful story of heritage and unity. She sees cooking as a way to connect with ancestors and recognize the shared humanity reflected in diverse food cultures. Through black-eyed peas, generations continue to find meaning and connection, reinforcing the ties that bind them to their past and to one another.
Whether served as Hoppin’ John in the South or as Acarajé in Brazil, black-eyed peas carry a message of hope, resilience, and gratitude. The practice transcends mere superstition, weaving together history, culture, and a desire for prosperity. While no one can predict whether eating the beans will bring tangible wealth, the ritual itself enriches the lives of those who partake in it by fostering a sense of community and continuity. As the New Year unfolds, the tradition serves as a reminder of the shared values that connect people across generations and borders. It’s a testament to the enduring power of food to preserve culture, honor the past, and inspire optimism for the future.